Other than that, I find I have a bit more control with it cutting on the pull stroke. Rotate the blade mounting hardware 180 degrees (on both the handle and the top of the saw). But since it is easy to try, I will give it a go next time I am in shop. For installing the blade of the coping saw, you need to set the front edge of the frame on a durable surface. Most of them are set up to cut on the pull stroke, and I am fine with that. This post made think about it a bit! Then remove the blade from the frame, place it through the drilled hole and reattach it to the frame. When assembling a coping saw, make sure that the teeth of the saw point toward the handle. While you install the blade in the metal frame, place it firmly on a robust surface so that the blade and structure don’t spring away. It also makes it harder to tell where you are headed, because the blade is leading the way and your hand is following along after it, like a backseat driver. While this seems like it would be ideal, I actually find that these are a little bit harder control since you have no real indicator of where you are headed. Here are the steps to improved use of your coping saw: Loosen the blade (usually done by unscrewing the handle). Orient the show face so you can cut with pull strokes, to keep the risk of injury to a minimum. They are backwards. It simply has a more solid feel to it. Weird & Wacky, Copyright © 2020 HowStuffWorks, a division of InfoSpace Holdings, LLC, a System1 Company. This leaves the side that is away from me get all tattered. Spin it 180 degrees and put it back in. Cutting with the blade in front of the center-line of the handle makes the saw more likely to bind, and harder to steer, because you are chasing where the saw has been, rather than where you want it to go. I do have both a Groz coping saw  and an Olson coping saw. The solution to fixing many coping saw complaints is simple, and absolutely free. Many came to know about this risk from experience. (If only I had a coping saw with a laser pointer showing the center-line like this). By the way, do not set up a coping saw to cut with a push stroke.If the blade breaks, you know what could happen? You lead where you want it to go, instead of following where it has been. I was thinking that there must be others before me who have discovered this trick. At first, attach the blade tightly with the far end spigot of the frame. I have seen reference to the risk of the blade breaking and then impaling the hand, but have been fortunate enough to not experience it. We also share information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners who may combine it with other information that you’ve provided to them or that they’ve collected from your use of their services. We use cookies to personalise content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyse our traffic. A decent saw with a rigid frame can handle setting up the teeth so they cut on either the push stroke or the pull stroke. Almost every coping saw being sold today is set-up wrong. He makes no special mention of it. I am not so sure if setting the blade above the center line really helps. After that, compress the frame by pressing down on the handle. By following these simple steps, your cutting blade now trails the center-line of your hand. The deciding factor for me is whether I want the splintered face on the side of the wood that is facing me, or away from me. You consent to our cookies if you continue to use our website. Now, it's time to attach one end of the blade to spigot furthermost away from the handle. This is not a discussion of the push versus pull in terms of does it cut on the push stroke or the pull stroke. Most modern coping saws have adopted this design of attaching the blades to pins at right angles to the saw path. Take the blade out. Installing the coping saw blade with perfection might not be a herculean task. Notice how the red centerline of the saw indicates where the saw is heading. Most antique coping saws and some modern versions have connections that allow the saw to ride at the center-line. To do this, first drill a small hole into the wood. How does a new product go through the prototyping process? More than half of the coping saws available today use this arrangement of the blade being strung in front of the centerline of the handle. As an added bonus, the steering pins actually point in the direction you are heading, instead of uselessly pointing to where you have been. They look amazing and get good reviews (they have the blade on the center-line)  I just do not use coping saws often enough to justify the price. Rotate the blade mounting hardware 180 degrees (on both the handle and the top of the saw). I have seen a lot of buzz about the Knew Concepts saws. I’ll try it for sure. This is the equivalent of rear wheel drive, it is less stable and makes the blade more likely to go off-course or bind. Where I think they make the mistake is that they position the blade in front of the centerline of the handle. They may be perfectly good saws, but they could be better. So I searched as best I could to find any other references for it, but I only found a single image on a post from Derek Cohen on “In the Woodshop” where he shows his Olson coping saw, and it is set-up the way I describe [link]. I have an old Disston coping saw that has the blade ride on the center-line (similar to those shown above). Nonetheless, it would help if you were careful. If it has never happened to you, it doesn’t mean it won’t. If the”pretty side” is facing me while I cut, then I put the blade in to cut on the push stroke. The center-line only points to where you are, not where you want to be in the next few cycles of the saw blade. You lead, the blade follows. Like I said, most of the time I am fine with using the coping saw on the pull stroke. In either case, I set it up so the blade is behind the center-line, rather than in front of it. Thanks for sharing. Loosen the blade (usually done by unscrewing the handle). I prefer the Olson. Tighten up the handle. Thanks. Of course, not all saws need this adjustment, there are some, that can’t do it because the blade is already at the center-line of the saw. Timberframing on a small scale and other woodworking tales. Make sure you’re holding its handle in such a way so that it can point up. Hmmmmmm… I just had an idea for adding fender washer to the handle to act as a shield for the hand , Top | Home | Shop for Woodworking Tools I Like, Coping Saw – Blade Direction – You lead, blade follows. You can then proceed to saw out the desired shape. Ok I have seen a lot of questions on this. Here are the steps to improved use of your coping saw: Flip the pins around and rotate the blade to get this arrangement which is more stable and more steerable. Information about the device's operating system, Information about other identifiers assigned to the device, The IP address from which the device accesses a client's website or mobile application, Information about the user's activity on that device, including web pages and mobile apps visited or used, Information about the geographic location of the device when it accesses a website or mobile application. Subscribe to RSS headline updates from: Powered by FeedBurner.

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